山丹焉支山 【原创】

陶玉和

<h3><font color="#010101">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 焉支山坐落在河西走廊峰腰地带的甘凉交界处,位于山丹县城东南40公里处,现大马营乡境内,距山丹县城40公里,东西长约三十四公里,南北宽约二十公里。属自然风景区,自古就有"甘凉咽喉"之称。</font></h3> &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;焉支山是祁连山的一条支脉,位于县城东南50公里处。主峰百花岭,海拔3978米。焉支山又叫胭脂山,因山中生长一种花草,其汁液酷似胭脂,山中妇女用来描眉涂唇而得名。景区内松柏常青,草木葱茏,蜂飞蝶舞,鸟语花香,风光秀丽,景色宜人,有河西"小黄山"的美称。<br> <h3><font color="#010101">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;焉支山载入史册已久。先有公元前121年,汉武帝派年轻将领骠骑将军霍去病率兵西进,过焉支山,击败匈奴,夺得河西地区,打通了中原与西域交往的通道,自此,焉支山成为胜利的象征而载入史册。后有公元609年,隋炀帝驾幸焉支山,举办"万国博览会",召会27国使臣,写下了著名长诗《饮马长城窟》,使焉支山成为世界博览会最早的发源地而闻名天下。</font></h3> &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;春秋战国和秦汉时期,焉支山就是水草茂盛的天然草场,古老的游牧民族氐、羌、月氏、匈奴等曾先后在这里繁衍生息,也是古代游牧民族妇女搽抹胭脂原料红蓝花的重要产地。据传,那时匈奴诸藩王的妻妾多从这一带的美女中挑选,匈奴语称各藩王之妻叫"阏氏","焉支"或"胭脂"是其汉译的谐音,焉支山因此而得名。<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 元狩二年(前121年)春,汉武帝任命十九岁的霍去病为骠骑将军。 于春、夏两次率兵出击占据河西(今河西走廊及湟水流域)地区的匈奴部,歼4万余人。俘虏匈奴王5人及王母、单于阏氏、王子、相国、将军等120多人,降服匈奴浑邪王及部众4万人,全部占领河西走廊。匈奴为此悲歌:"失我祁连山,使我六畜不蕃息;失我焉支山,使我嫁妇无颜色。"匈奴没有文字,他们的心性和才情仅体现于汉人单方面的转述。这首诗在匈奴消失上千年后一直保持着魅力。不重视文字的匈奴,肯定不会想到有一天自身会在人类的血液里被稀释得无影无踪,随口所唱过的一首歌却能活灵活现地在另外的语言里继续塑造他们的灵魂。<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;西汉名将霍去病在此大败匈奴;隋炀帝在此诏见西域27国使臣,举办"万国博览会",堪称世博会的发源地;唐玄宗封焉支山神为宁济公,河西节度使哥舒翰在焉支山建宁济公祠。"焉支(燕支)"作为诗歌意象,经常出现在李白、韦应物等伟大诗人的作品当中,留下了不少千古绝唱,余韵犹在,震古烁今。 &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 焉支山,亦名胭脂山、燕支山、删丹山,又称大黄山。位于张掖市山丹县城南50公里处,东西长约三十四公里,南北宽约二十公里。焉支山的森林公园是一九九三年经甘肃省林业厅批准成立的省级森林公园,是以自然风光为依托的游览区。林区南部是世界第二,亚洲第一的军马场。区内有唐玄宗天宝年间建的钟山寺旧址,唐代诗人李白曾在此留下"虽居焉支山,不到溯雪寒"的绝句,素有"小黄山"之称。是消夏避暑,度假旅游不可多得的自然风光游览胜地。<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 城东南五十里大黄山,古浑邪王故地。川岩秀丽,水响谷间,四顾野鸟喧鸣,名花照眼,松柏匝植,药草满山,辉映一片,铺若胭脂。唐河哥舒翰建宁济公祠,后因为名刹福地。而其山带湿常雾,有云辄雨,名为胜景,信耐观也。单于远遁,悔失焉支,信然(山丹县志记载)。<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 焉支山是祁连山的一个支脉,横卧山丹与永昌之间,绵延七十多公里,蓄积着许多名贵动、植物。奇异的地形和植被,使这个山区的自然景色秀丽壮观,几百座大大小小的石林奇峰耸立其间,形态各异,有的像龙腾,有的像虎跃,有的像马奔,有的像熊伏……千奇百怪。繁茂的植物,引起国内外生物学家的极大兴趣,曾组成科学考察团、森林调查队和植物标本采集组深入高山密林,考察各种植物的生长习性,调查林木的分布状况,采集大量的标本和苗木种子。这里的植物约有五十多科,三百多种,大黄、羌活、柴胡、麻黄、防风、沙参、高挂草等中草药走俏国际市场,为国家换取大量外汇。<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 四季常青的森林,为野生动物的繁衍栖息提供了特殊的生存环境,珍禽异兽出没无常。在这个天然动物园里,有梅花鹿、猞猁、瘴子、大头羊、青羊、雪鸡、蓝马鸡、长尾雉等国家一、二类保护动物,它们在大自然的怀抱里悠然自在地生息着,在人类的保护下,形成了一个鲜妍和谐的生态环境。<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 焉支山森林公园位于山丹县城南50公里处的大黄山林区,是以自然风光为依托的游览区。焉支山峰拔地而起,悬崖峭壁直插云霄,岩如斧削、壁如林立;四周山壑纵横,怪石嶙峋,石涧溪流潺潺,如鸣环佩,崖峰松柏苍翠,碧绿欲滴;谷底绿树藤蔓,参差披拂。春季各种花卉盛开,姹紫嫣红;盛夏,绿荫浓郁,凉爽宜人;晚秋,树叶殷红,果挂枝头;严冬,万里雪飘,银装素裹,一派北国风光。区内有唐玄宗天宝年间建的钟山寺旧址,历史上有名的"万国博览会"遗址,复建的宗教胜地玉皇殿、大佛殿,更有山丹十景之一的"删丹朝晖",唐代诗人李白曾在此留下"虽居焉支山,不到溯雪寒"的绝句。区内重峦叠嶂,松林密布。山上林海松涛,碧波无际,山下沟壑纵横,清泉淙淙。腹地,獐鹿、岩羊等野生动物出没其间,峡谷两侧崇山峭立,奇石岩岩。秋日,各种野花竞相怒放,争奇斗艳;晓日初升,云兴霞蔚,重雾缥缈,气象万千。秋夏之际,这里气候凉爽湿润,景色秀丽迷人,素有"世博圣地、国博故里"之称,是消夏避暑,度假旅游不可多得的自然风光游览胜地。 &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 焉支山<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;匈奴<br>失我祁连山,使我六畜不蕃息。<br>失我焉支山,使我妇女无颜色。<br>失我今神人,使我不得祭于天。 &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 饮马长城窟行<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 杨广<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 肃肃秋风起,悠悠行万里。<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 万里何所行,横漠筑长城。<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 岂合小子智,先圣之所营。<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 树兹万世策,安此亿兆生。<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 讵敢惮焦思,高枕于上京。<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 北河见武节,千里卷戎旌。<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 山川互出没,原野穷超忽。<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 撞金止行阵,鸣鼓兴士卒。<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 千乘万旗动,饮马长城窟。<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 秋昏塞外云,雾暗关山月。<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 缘严驿马上,乘空烽火发。<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 借问长城侯,单于入朝谒。<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 浊气静天山,晨光照高阙。<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 释兵仍振旅,要荒事万举。<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 饮至告言旋,功归清庙前。 &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 李白<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;虽居燕支山,不道朔雪寒。<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;妇女马上笑,颜如赪玉盘。 &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;韦应物:<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 胡马、胡马,远放燕支山下。<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 跑沙跑雪独嘶,东望西望路迷。<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 路迷、路迷,边草无穷日暮。 &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 王健:《焉支山赋》<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;河西有山名焉支兮,系祁连之余脉;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;匈奴王妻为"阏氏"兮,谐"焉支"与"胭脂";<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;删丹曾为其故名兮,相间丹碧如"删";<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;主峰入云四千米兮,誉河西之"黄山";<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;覆压纵横百千里兮,扼甘凉之咽喉;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;山南山丹军马场兮,今世界称第一;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;融汇文学于民间兮,讲"百花池"故事;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;寓神话于此高山兮,书断"龙"之传说;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;古兵家必争之地兮,今游旅之名胜;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;盖时中原分九州兮,域所属为雍州;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;历夏商周三朝代兮,戎羌牛马而牧;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;逢秦代中国一统兮,月氏逐异独居;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;称雄于敦煌祁连兮,掳焉支而虎踞;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;汉之北匈奴强盛兮,败月氏而得地;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;划诸王饮马之域兮,右贤王主河西;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;城东南之大黄山兮,浑邪王之故地;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;时牧马避暑而歌兮,亦掠汉之先锋;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;胡马远放燕支山兮,暮日无穷边草;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;光摇旌旆五凉平兮,天外群峰玉削;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;瀚海欲空青见月兮,燕支未染如琼;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;飞鸿已度长城窟兮,勒马还歌出塞;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;朱夏重裘犹不解兮,崆峒倚剑峥嵘;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;武帝张华夏王道兮,会匈奴而争雄;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;遣霍去病于河西兮,历二战以成功;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;匈奴痛失祁连山兮,悲六畜不蕃息;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;匈奴痛失焉支山兮,叹嫁妇无颜色;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;汉武张中国之掖兮,马营草原设苑;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;河西郡县设田官兮,六十万人戍田;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;从此焉支入版图兮,通西域之机缘;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;太初自为出五原兮,长城以安丝路;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;窦融任张掖督尉兮,乐人民而安居;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;遭三国天下乱世兮,焉支属魏如汉;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;时魏太武帝正位兮,战马百万余匹;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;隋大业中国复强兮,裴矩掌管交市;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 《西域图记》献炀帝兮,帝大悦而西巡;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;帝巡视过焉支山兮,会二十七国使;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;王使焚香奏乐舞兮,世博览之盛会;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;得世博圣地美名兮,不亏国博故里;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;燕支山名宁济公兮,玄宗天宝封焉;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;焉支不到溯雪寒兮,李太白之诗篇;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;大唐于西域紧要兮,通互市而兴佛;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;钟鼓悠远而法正兮,若禅意之无限;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;杨四郎插枪小憩兮,涌泉流淌至今;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;意马可·渡罗旅居兮,遍名胜与山川;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;万历年朱冠建殿兮,名三佛与玉皇;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;寺山林巅峰之中兮,飞檐翘角清幽;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;寺陡壁悬崖之上兮,画栋清幽淡雅;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;焉支山蒙将休养兮,明不杀而叩望;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;三六年国共争战兮,西路军于河西;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;徐向前战马步芳兮,焉支山以浴血;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;救陈昌浩于马营兮,钟山寺养月余;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;涧寺沟河源黑河兮,润田以促经济;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;九零年逢风华景兮,退耕还林封山;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;各色花卉春盛开兮,品姹紫与嫣红;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;盛夏之绿荫浓郁兮,爽清凉与宜人;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;晚秋叶红果挂枝兮,得硕果之累累;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;严冬似万里雪飘兮,观北国之银装;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;悬崖峭壁插云霄兮,岩壁斧削林立;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;重峦叠嶂密松林兮,林海松涛无际;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;异地貌奇峰耸立兮,虎跃龙腾马奔;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;山湿雾有云辄雨兮,信耐胜景之观;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;晓日升云兴霞蔚兮,雾飘渺之气象;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;獐鹿岩羊出没间兮,谷侧崇山峭立;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;蜂飞蝶舞多葱茏兮,难形容其秀丽;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;苍翠松柏碧欲滴兮,藤蔓参差披拂;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;奇石岩野花怒放兮,似斗艳与争奇;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;花迷眼松柏匝植兮,辉映铺若胭脂;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;山下之沟壑纵横兮,淌清泉而淙淙;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;山壑涧溪流潺潺兮,如鸣环佩之音;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;虽夏似秋高气爽兮,景秀丽而人迷;<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;威乎,焉支山复兴兮! &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 焉支山是一座风光秀美的山,她物产丰富,风景独特,全林区植物有1千多种,其中乔木树种有青海云杉、祁连园柏、华北落叶松、山杨;灌木种类繁多,各种野草野花争奇斗艳,中药材有大黄、黄芪、沙参等一百多种,野生动物有鹿、麝、獐、岩羊等几十种,地下资源有已开发的金矿、煤矿等。<br>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 焉支山是一座母亲山,山顶终年积雪、林草繁茂,发源于林区北麓的寺沟河、青石头河、流水沟河、大口子河、瓷窑口河、直沟河等,均属于黑河水系,集水面积约为176平方公里,年径流量约为1906万立方米,虽然流量不大,但却常年不断,可浇灌近5万亩农田,是沿山4乡18村2万多群众赖以生存的"生命摇篮",它的兴衰枯荣关系到全县政治稳定、社会进步、经济发展。 <h3><font color="#010101">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;1936年,中国工农红军西路军,在总指挥徐向前,政委陈昌浩率领下,远征河西走廊,曾在焉支山,和国民党马步芳部浴血奋战,无数红军血洒焉支山,西路军惨遭失利。政委陈昌浩因病被马营坡一名老中医营救,在焉支山隐匿养病月余后,先回湖北,再转而复返延安。</font></h3>